The Mount Everest

The Mount Everest

The highest point in the world in the Himalayas, bordering Nepal and China (Tibet); 8,848 m (traditionally adopted height; other measurements were: 8,846 m in 1993, 8,850 m in 1999)

Mount Everest
The mountain was discovered in 1852 and received the name of Peak XV. It was given its final name in 1865 in honor of Sir George Everest. His Tibetan name is Chomo Lungma ("Mother Goddess of the World").

Everest is a large pyramid with three faces and three edges, the primary limestone cut into crystalline schists and tilted to the south. In the Tibetan region, the northeast foot separates the north and east faces, where the Rangbuk and Kangchung glaciers rise. In the south of Nepal, on the southeastern and western border coasts, the frosty tongue of the Khumbu flows and breaks into the seraks at the foot of the impressive south-west face.

From the beginning of the twentieth century, Europeans were attracted to Mount Everest: geographers, naturalists, and physicians participated in the expedition led by mountaineers. In the second half of the twentieth century, all the horns of the Alps climbed, and the world's highest peak victory could only appeal to athletes.

The British first tried to rebalance and ascend from the Tibetan side. A long preparation was needed: crossing the Himalayas to cross the Tibetan Plateau required a pass from the Dalai Lama or Nepali authorities; In order to provide material or food, the yaks needed to be found, burdened animals were especially well adapted to winter and altitude, and also hired porters, who were always employed in the area. , Great climbers, capable of carrying 40kg of load at high altitude. The first expeditions left Darjeeling and crossed the Himalayas to the Tibetan Plateau, heading west along Everest.

 The first recognized Attempt: 1921

Everest, Bruce Expedition
Colonel C. Who The first quest in 120, led by Howard Barry, was essentially a redevelopment operation. It rises above the Rangbuk Glacier and reaches the northern pass (Chang La ,,, 5 m), from which the potential path to the summit is imagined. He discovered that the summit of Everest had a pyramidal shape. It is often adorned with cloudy plumes made of ice and ice scattered with the wind. Glaciers cut by the Serak and Kravis descend from the edge of the mountain snow to the north, an edge separated by a pass from the top to reach the bottom. That's where the first expeditions tried to reach the top. To the west, a valley, from which an avalanche rises, is emptied at the foot of the hill: this is the path that led to victory.

After this first expedition, the equipment was developed. Thus, as oxygen became scarce from a certain height, climbers provided oxygen masks from 1922 that eased their breathing. C. The first attack was attempted in 1222 under Bruce's direction; Oxygen is used for the first time; G. I. Finch, & c. G. Bruce reached an altitude of 5.7 meters, never reaching that altitude, but the expedition ended tragically that a car০০ carrier had died below an iceberg.

Everest, Bruce Expedition
C. Bruce and then E! F. The 1924 expedition, run by Norton, enabled him to reach an altitude of 8,560 meters without oxygen. A few days later, G. H. L. Mallory and A.W. Irvine mysteriously disappeared on the northeast border.

The following expeditions: 1933 (before air reconnaissance, which was a celebrity for this period and led by H. Rutledge), 1933 (E. Shipton), 1936 (H. Ritzlage), 1938 (H.W. Tillman) failed to reach Norton in 1924. Have crossed. Difficulty and length of selected routes, rapid fatigue in men at high altitude, wind and winter were responsible for this failure.

 The Victorian Expedition of the 5th

Edmund Hillary, 1953
In the 9th, these operations, which were halted by World War II, resumed, but from Kathmandu, Nepal, because Tibet had passed through Chinese domination; Also, the mountaineers decided to try climbing from the west face. Then we start exploring the southern opal: Tillman first crosses the Khumbu Glacier (1950). In 5, Shipton's English expedition, where Edmund Hillary of New Zealand took part, recognized the route, and was stopped by the fall of the Syracuse, then stopped at a huge crevasse 4 to 5 meters wide. In the spring of 12, a powerful Swiss expedition, led by Dr. Wise Dunnant, attempted adventure; Lambert and Sherpad are among the main Nepalese Tenzing Norg. Crossing the crevasse for a rope bridge, they will see that the valley has passed through a canal. From this southern side (7,986m) they can see, behind the southern peak, 8,754m high, highest peak: 8,848m. But the attack, driven by Lambert and Tenzing Norgai, failed at an altitude of 6,6 meters at the southeast end; The road is open. Autumn expeditions, launched earlier this season - were thwarted by a cooler of 40 degrees Centigrade

In 1953, by contrast, the English expedition was served by fortune. It was counted between New Zealand's Edmund Hillary and members of the Nepalese Tenzing Norgay, led by Colonel John Hunt (3-5). State-of-the-art equipment was previously tested in Switzerland, and mountaineers have carefully studied their route; Finally, they completed a three-week orientation course at a height of 6,000 meters.

A passage has been discovered in the valley, the climb has been climbed and a camp has been set up on the south side. Colonel Hunt formed two invading groups, supported by the support groups who came to the last camp. The first attacking team failed on May 26 at 8,754 meters; However, on May 27, Hillary and Tenzing Norgai reached the summit at 11:30 pm and thus the first victory of the world's highest peak.

Various firsts

However, Everest's epic does not stop; Many first jobs are still to be done. It is alleged that a Chinese party was topped by the northeast facade in 19০; Whatever the case, China's success on this same trail in 1995 (top 9 climbers) is unacceptable. The first crossing (ascending by the West Ridge and downhill to the southeastern state) was completed by the American WF Ansold and TF Hornbine in 1979. In 1979., C Bonnington's biggest expedition to the British expedition was after the Himalayan War, suppressed the Southwest. Mouth: The peak is D Huston, D Scott, p. Boardman and Sherpa are reached by Pertemba. In 1978, p. Haibler and Reinhold Messner climbed Everest without oxygen. The first winter climbing poles were El Clichy and K. This was done by Willicki (February 1980). First French climb p. Mazoud, J Afanasif, Ann. Jaeger was created by K. D. Demberger (1978).

In 1979, with the start of overseas expeditions to the Chinese borders, new visions were opened for mountaineers: from May 7, Japanese Takashi and Sunko climbed the dangerous northwest face.

The women also stood on the "roof of the world": the Frenchman Christine Janin appeared there on 9 June, after the Japanese Junko Tabe.

 Always, a worrying topic
Every year, many expeditions from all over the country try to conquer the roof of the world again, and in Everest hundreds of people climb, even a hundred people a day. Upon arriving at work, members of an expedition set up a base camp and set their path to the summit, which they observed by binoculars. After that they start climbing, setting up camps that will serve as the basis for further progress, resting places and logistics depots. It is most difficult to set up a higher camp, as the course is at odds with the difficulties, increasing with the help of winter and wind. But above all, men at very high altitudes lose a large part of their energy, and an obstacle that they can play at 1000 meters becomes inaccessible at 8000 meters. The way (crevasses are broad metal ladders of fixed ropes) eases the climb and allows for racing for records, but the environment is fundamentally hostile to human beings since the first ascent of Mount Everest. In the 27th, one of the deadliest mountains in Everest's history, the Nepalese Sixteen took the guide.